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KERALA CITIES -
Ernakulam
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The commercial centre of the
state Kochi is in Ernakulam. With the best natural harbour
in the world, Ernakulam was a major centre of trade with a
variety of traders from the Arabs, Chinese, Portuguese,
Dutch and the British. Ernakulam has the historic Fort
Kochi. Before it became the first European settlement in
India, Ernakulam was a small fishing village. As the days
went by, the character of the village changed. It became a
city of culture and the European influences can be seen
from the examples of Indo-European architecture that still
exist. India's oldest church, the St. Francis Church, is
in Ernakulam. Built in 1503 by Portuguese Franciscan
Friars, initially of timber, it was reconstructed in stone
in 1779 by the Protestant Dutch.
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Chinese Fishing Nets/Vasco da Gama Square : These huge cantilevered
fishing nets are the legacy of one of the first visitors to the Malabar Coast.
Erected here between 1350 and 1450 AD by traders from the court of Kublai Khan,
these nets are set up on teak wood and bamboo poles. The best place to watch the
nets being lowered into the sea and catch being brought in is the Vasco da Gama
Square, a narrow promenade that runs along the beach. The Square is an ideal
place to idle, with stalls serving fresh delicious seafood, tender coconut etc.
Pierce Leslie Bungalow: This charming mansion was the office
of Pierce Leslie & Co., coffee merchants, founded in 1862. A representative of
the Fort Kochi colonial bungalow, this building reflects Portuguese, Dutch and
local influences. Characteristic features are wood panels that form the roof of
the ground floor, arched doorways, carved doors and sprawling rooms. Waterfront
verandahs are an added attraction. puram on the way to
Malappuram from Perinthalmanna. |
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Koder House: This magnificent building constructed by Samuel
S. Koder of The Cochin Electric Company in 1808 is a supreme example
of the transition from colonial to Indo-European architecture.
Features like verandah seats at the entrance, floor tiles set in a
chess board pattern, red coloured brick like facade, carved wood
furniture and a wooden bridge connecting to a separate structure
across the street are all unique to this bungalow.

St. Francis Church: Built in 1503 by Portuguese
Franciscan friars, this is India’s oldest European church. This was
initially built of timber and later reconstructed in stone masonry.
It was restored in 1779 by the Protestant Dutch, converted to an
Anglican church by the British in 1795 and is at present governed by
the Church of South India. Vasco da Gama was buried here in 1524
before his remains were moved to Lisbon, Portugal. The tombstone
still remains. |
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Santa Cruz Basilica: This historic church was built by the
Portuguese and elevated to a Cathedral by Pope Paul IV in 1558. In
1795 it fell into the hands of the British when they took over
Kochi, and was demolished. About a hundred years later Bishop Dom
Gomez Ferr eira commissioned a new building at the same site in 1887.
The church was proclaimed a Basilica in 1984 by Pope John Paul II.
Loafer’s Corner/Princess Street: One of the earliest streets
to be constructed in Fort Kochi, Princess Street with its European
style residences still retains its old world charm. The best view of
this quaint street can be had from Loafer’s Corner, the traditional
meeting place and hangout of the jovial funloving people of the
area. |
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Vasco House: Believed to have been the residence of Vasco da
Gama, this is one of the oldest Portuguese residences in Fort Kochi.
Built in the early sixteenth century, Vasco House sports the typical
European glass paned windows and balcony cum verandahs
characteristic of the times.
VOC Gate: The large wooden gate facing the Parade
Ground, with the monogram (VOC) of the once mighty Dutch East India
Company carved on it, was built in 1740. Parade Ground: The four
acre Parade Ground was where once the Portuguese, the Dutch and the
British colonists conducted their military parades and drills. The
buildings around the ground housed their defence establishments.
Today, the largest open ground in Fort Kochi, the Parade Ground is a
sports arena. |
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The Dutch Cemetery: The tomb stones here are the most
authentic record of the hundreds of Europeans who left their
homeland on a mission to expand their colonial empires and changed
the course of history of this land. The cemetery was consecrated in
1724 and is today managed by the Church of South India.

Thakur House: This graceful building holds within itself a
reflection of the colonial era. The Bungalow was built on the site
of the Gelderland Bastion, one of the seven bastions of the old
Dutch fort. Earlier known as Kunal or Hill Bungalow, it was home to
the managers of the National Bank of India during the British reign.
Today, the Bungalow belongs to Ram Bahadur Thakur and Company, the
renowned tea trading firm. |
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Bastion Bungalow: Built in the Indo-European style way back
in 1667, the Bungalow gets its name from its location on the site of
the Stromberg Bastion of the old Dutch fort. The building blends
beautifully into the circular structure of the bastion, has a tiled
roof and a typical first floor verandah in wood along its front
portion. Though it has been said that a network of secret tunnels
runs beneath the bungalow, none have been found. Today, the Bungalow
is the official residence of the Sub Collector.
Mattancherry Palace (Dutch Palace): Built by the Portuguese
in 1557 and presented to Raja Veera Kerala Varma of Kochi, the
palace was renovated in 1663 by the Dutch. On display here are
beautiful murals depicting scenes from the epics, Ramayana and
Mahabharata, and some of the Puranic Hindu legends. The palace also
houses Dutch maps of old Kochi, royal palanquins, coronation robes
of former maharajas of Kochi as well as period furniture. |
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Willingdon Island: Named after Lord Willingdon, a former
British Viceroy of India, this man-made island is surrounded by
beautiful backwaters. The island is the site of the city's best
hotels and trading centres, the Port Trust and the headquarters of
the southern naval command.
The Hill Palace Museum, Thripunithura:
10 km from Kochi, Hill Palace, the official residence of the
erstwhile Kochi royal family, was built in 1865. The palace complex
co nsists of 49 buildings in the traditional architectural style of
Kerala and is surrounded by 52 acres of terraced land with a deer
park and facilities for horse riding. A full-fledged
ethno-archaeological museum and Kerala's first ever heritage museum
are the main attractions. Displayed inside the thirteen galleries
are oil paintings, 19th century paintings, murals, sculptures in
stone and plaster of Paris, manuscripts, inscriptions and coins
belonging to the royal family. |
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Synagogue : Constructed in 1568, this is the oldest synagogue
in the Commonwealth. Destroyed in a shelling during the Portuguese
raid in 1662, it was rebuilt two years later by the Dutch. Known for
mid 18th century hand painted, willow patterned floor tiles from
Canton in China, a clock tower, Hebrew inscriptions
on stone slabs,
great scrolls of the Old Testament, ancient scripts on copper plates
etc.
Cherai Beach: This lovely beach bordering Vypeen island is
ideal for swimming. Dolphins are occasionally seen here. A typical
Kerala village with paddy fields and coconut groves nearby is an
added attraction.
Bolghatty Island: This island is famous for its palace of the
same name. The Bolghatty Palace was built in 1744 by the Dutch and
later taken over by the British. Today it is a hotel run by the
Kerala Tourism Development Corporation, with a small golf course and
special honeymoon cottages. |
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